Sign up for the Morning Brief, delivered weekdays.
I found The Kimbap through a Google search. I wish I had a more exciting meet-cute about my favorite Los Angeles restaurant but I don’t. It was my first week living in this city and I was hungry. For food, obviously. But also for something more. I wanted to be fortified, to be filled up. I wanted kimbap. When I feel the need for the kind of sustenance that goes beyond my gut, this seaweed-wrapped roll of seasoned rice, beef and pickled daikon radish is my first choice. This ubiquitous but often overlooked dish is my ratatouille, my Proustian madeleine, my mom’s spaghetti. It’s a taste of comfort from a simpler time.
The author with her grandmother.
I was eight and living in New Orleans when my grandparents moved in with us. My dad returned to Korea for a job and my mom needed help…